The genus of monocotyledonous plants Amaryllis (Amaryllis) belongs to the family Amaryllis. In a separate category was allocated by the Swedish taxonist Karl Linnaeus in 1753. According to the description, these are perennial herbaceous bulbous plants that are characterized by a direct peduncle, bright green, elongated leaves, collected in a lush rosette. Inflorescences are umbrella-shaped and include 2-12 flowers. The most famous type of Amaryllis is Belladonna. Planting and growing amaryllis in open ground is not very different from indoor breeding. About what constitutes amaryllis in the garden, the features of planting and caring for the crop are described below.
Choosing a landing place
For growing a flower, well-lit areas are suitable. At the same time, they must be protected from strong winds and drafts. The conditions located on the south side of the walls of the buildings correspond to these conditions.
The plant is a magnificent decoration of the garden
How to plant in open ground
Many doubt whether it is possible to plant amaryllis on the street. Perennial accustomed to a tropical climate, so when grown outdoors it requires mild conditions. It is not surprising that in home pots the plant feels much more comfortable: in this case it is much easier to achieve the desired parameters. However, experienced florists quite successfully breed amaryllis in the country, in the garden, garden, flower beds.
Amaryllis in the garden can be grown in two ways: from seeds and bulbs.
Seed cultivation
This method of reproduction is rarely used, because it is complex and does not always succeed.
Important! Amaryllis grown from seeds loses the characteristics of the parent specimen and blooms only for 7 years. Seeds quickly lose their germination, so they should be planted immediately after harvest.
Seeds are obtained as a result of cross-pollination, which is produced using a brush (spend it on the flowers). Ripening occurs after 2-3 months.
Seed propagation
Sowing is carried out as follows:
- Seeds are removed from the box.
- A drainage layer about 2 cm thick is laid in the wells.
- Nutritious earth mixture is poured on top (you can use the same as for the bulbs).
- The substrate is tamped.
- Produce sowing.
- Between seedlings should be a distance of up to 1.5 cm.
- The soil is sprayed with a spray gun.
After planting, it is necessary to ensure that the earth does not dry out and does not swamp.
Bulb cultivation
Before planting, you need to check the bulb for density, absence of damage, mold, rot and the presence of developed roots. If affected areas were found during the examination, they must be cut off and treated with charcoal.
It is also necessary to remove dead scales and disinfect the bulb in this order:
- Hold in a solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour.
- Treat with fungicides.
After 24 hours, the planting material will dry out, and then it can be planted in open ground.
Worth to know! When purchasing material, it is important not to confuse it with hippeastrum bulbs. The latter is not able to grow and develop in "street" conditions. The bulb of the hippeastrum has a round shape, larger sizes, its surface is covered with flakes of a light shade.
Amaryllis on the street must be planted according to the following rules:
- Landing is carried out in late spring - early summer.
- A drain is placed at the bottom of the well.
- Bulbs in the substrate are buried completely (15 cm) and placed at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other.
- Mulching is done immediately after planting so that the surface of the earth does not dry out.
Watering the beds should be moderate until the height of the shoots reaches 10 cm, and then switch to abundant watering. If you neglect this rule, the amaryllis may not bloom: all the energy will go to the formation of a magnificent outlet.
On a note! During the period of active growth, flower stalks can reach such a height that they begin to bend under the weight of their own buds. To prevent the flower from breaking, it is recommended to install a support.
The soil must be fertile and loose in order to pass air and moisture well. If the soil does not meet the specified requirements, organic and mineral fertilizers are added to it, and drainage is also carried out. Shoots appear in late summer - early fall. Flowering begins for 2-3 years.
Bulb propagation
Top dressing
Fertilizers are used to stimulate the growth and development of amaryllis. For these purposes, you can use:
- mullein (1 glass per 10 liters of water);
- bird droppings (1 tablespoon diluted in 10 liters of water).
Top dressing is introduced before flowering begins.
Advice! At the end of the flowering period, the culture can be fed with phosphorus-potassium mixtures. In the summer it will be useful to introduce complex fertilizers.
Among the recommended formulations are the following:
- potassium salt;
- superphosphate double;
- nitrophosk;
- magnesium sulfate;
- ammonium nitrate.
Choose the most affordable and convenient for you.
Wintering
In late August - early September, they stop feeding the flower and reduce the frequency of watering. In late October - early November, watering is excluded. From this moment, leaf decay begins, and at the end of the season, the stems are completely exposed.
Artificially removing leaflets is not recommended, since during the process of dying off, all organic substances contained in them pass into the bulb. Thanks to this, a nutrient reserve is created, necessary for future flowering. If 2-3 leaves remain for a long time, they can be carefully cut off at the base of the bulb or bent.
During dormancy, amaryllis in open ground should be watered once every 15-20 days. Bulb containers are stored in a cool, dry (5-12 degrees) place (pantry, greenhouse, garage, conservatory). Lighting the flower at rest is not required. In this form, the bulbs are left for 8-9 weeks.
Important! Planting material does not tolerate low temperatures. Even short-term cooling can negatively affect the condition of the bulbs.
Winter preparations
Amaryllis Watering
Immediately after planting, moderate watering is carried out. Some gardeners were convinced from personal experience that at first it was useful not to water the plant at all. When the peduncles grow by 10 cm, moisturizing is abundant. Moisture is provided as the soil dries. During the procedure, it is very important not to fill the bulb.
Watering
Growing problems
Amaryllis is very sensitive to changing growing conditions. At the same time, garden amaryllis is perennial plants that are not as often exposed to diseases and pests as many other crops.
It often happens that the plant does not bloom. This may be caused by the following factors:
- Bad soil or lack of fertilizer.
- Incorrect arrangement of the flower, in connection with which the plant is deficient in lighting or is exposed to a draft.
- If the plant is not transplanted for the winter, then over time a large number of bulbs will form at the rooting site of amaryllis. This leads to a lack of flowering. To prevent this from happening, it is recommended that onions are separated from the roots once every 3 years.
- The bulb planting is too deep, as a result of which the culture will not be able to form a well-developed peduncle.
Among the diseases and pests that amaryllis most often suffers from are the following:
- Root rot.
- Bulb mold.
- Rotting of leaves and peduncles along with flowers.
- Spider mite.
- Red burn (staganosporosis), which affects the scales of the bulb.
- Viral mosaic.
- Thrips.
- Mealybug.
- Amaryllis worm.
- Shield.
- Soft false shield.
- Aphid.
- Nailtail.
- Daffodil fly.
Signs of a red burn are:
- Crimson spots on foliage and shoots.
- Stagnation of the green parts of the flower, loss of elasticity.
On a note. To rid the plant of staganosporosis, it is necessary to withstand the bulb in a solution of potassium permanganate for 2 hours, and treat all damage with brilliant green and charcoal. Then the bulb must be kept in the air for 7 days, and then planted in a new substrate.
Staganosporosis
Symptoms of root rot - brown spots on the leaves. You can cure the culture by ridding it of the affected areas and treating the flower with foundationazole.
Often, amaryllis leaves are attacked by thrips, which suck the juice from the plant. White specks on the surface of the leaves speak of the results of their vital activity. In the fight against pests, spraying a flower with an actellik or karbofos will help.
If green spots appeared on the leaves, it means that the plant fell ill with a viral mosaic.
On a note. Infection is transmitted through sucking insects. It is impossible to get rid of the problem, therefore, special attention should be paid to prevention (inspection of the flower for the presence of sucking pests and their timely destruction).
Disease prevention
Quality flower care serves as the prevention of diseases and pests. Also, careful processing of the bulbs before rooting with hot water will help to avoid problems. You need to water the plants under the root - this eliminates the ingress of drops on leaves and shoots.
Why amaryllis yellow leaves
There may be 2 reasons:
- Defeat aphids or thrips. The solution is to treat the flower with an actelik.
- Excess moisture. The solution is to establish a watering regime.
Why amaryllis has pale leaves
The reason is a long exposure to culture under the bright sun. Foliage burns out and loses saturation of colors. The dull color of the leaves, coupled with their wilting, may be due to waterlogging of the soil or lack of drainage. It is also not recommended to spray leaves.
Amaryllis garden has high decorative qualities. It can be grown both at home and in the open ground. In order for the culture to please its flowering for as long as possible, it is necessary to properly care for it and adhere to the rules for planting in open ground.
